Travel Tales: A Taste of Chablis

When I was invited by Pure Chablis to visit their coveted region back in May, I was excited and had a slight idea that I would be visiting many producers who made wine from the Chardonnay grape. But upon arrival, I was pleasantly surprised by its culture and history, the friendly people, and of course, the delicious food. 

Located about three hours (115 miles) south of Paris, Auxerre is a quaint town with many rolling hills, old cobblestone streets, and structures dating back to the 16th century. Chablis lies within the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region, which is traditionally known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. And while many of the producers who I had the chance to visit are pioneers in the region who specialize in Chablis, they also are making spectacular wines from other grapes like Aligote and Gamay. The theme of this particular trip was to enjoy the wines paired with foods that would best compliment Chablis’ incredible range.

So without further delay, here’s a cute recap of my time spent in Chablis. 

OKAY SO….WHAT IS CHABLIS? 

Chablis is made from the Chardonnay grape, but it is the region of Bourgogne that makes the wine taste different from its other global counterparts. With 5500 hectares planted and four classifications of wines (Chablis, Petit Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru), Chablis truly is in a league of its own. To get even more specific, there are special plots of land (known as ‘climats’) that have unique geological and climatic conditions. In Chablis. 47 climat names can be featured on wine labels, 40 climat names for Chablis Premier Cru, and seven for Chablis Grand Cru.

What do all of these names mean for the everyday wine drinker? The most specific the title on the label, the more pricey (and valuable) the wine will be.

As a wine, Chablis is often described as lean with great minerality and acidity. When it comes to its flavor profile, it can be quite aromatic with white floral, citrus (lime and lemon), and green fruit (apple) notes, as well as stone fruit like white peach and nectarine. Depending on the vintage, Chablis can express itself as very round and rich on the palate, with flavors of baked pineapple, ripe melon, and yellow apple. This usually is the case when the wine has spent time aging in oak barrels.

WHAT MAKES IT SO SPECIAL? 

Any winemaker in Chablis will tell you it is the terroir (the combination of climate, topography, and soil) that makes the wine so good. Known as the sub-soil Kimmeridgean, the terroir is rich with deposits of limestone, which adds salinity and minerality to the wines. My second day in Chablis included exploring the region’s hilly terrain in an all-day event known as La Balade Gourmande. What my fellow travelers thought would be a cute walk through some vineyards turned out to be an 8-mile hike, with stops every few miles to taste regional foods and wines made from the exact parcel of land.

During my visit, I experienced Chablis in many forms, but my favorite styles were ones that were balanced – the fruit flavors, minerality, and acidity all worked together in harmony, and the finish (or the length of the flavors on my palate) was long and pleasant. Keep on scrolling for a few of my favorite labels.

FIVE LABELS TO TRY

Of the 3.1 million bottles of Chablis that are exported to the United States, 83 percent of them are Petit Chablis and Chablis, and the remaining 17 percent are Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.

Not even gonna hold y’all–I had the opportunity to sample dozens and dozens of bottles of Chablis by a number of producers. And because I’m hella Type A, I made sure to note which ones I thought would be crowd-pleasing not only for me and my home girls but for you, your mama, and your cousin too.

• William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2019

• Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020

• Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2019

• J. Moreau & Fils Petit Chablis 2019

• Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020

WHERE TO DINE IN AUXERRE

Every time I visit France, I’m blown away by its culinary artistry. From the freshest ingredients to the creative presentation, I was quite pleased with 90 percent of the restaurants we had the chance to visit.

If you visit Auxerre in the spring months, you’ll notice that asparagus is listed on every pre-fixe menu (two or three courses)– and that’s because it is in season. I would highly suggest having as much as you can, along with enjoying escargot, peas, and really, any dessert.

These are five restaurants in Auxerre you must try, and make sure you place a reservation!

Asparagus is really that girl in the spring

• Les 3 Bourgeons – Named “The Three Buds”, this restaurant is owned by three friends who came from Japan. The menu spotlights the best of Burgundian cuisine, but with a really cool twist. Lunch was a pre-fixe three-course menu, and we selected a bottle of Chablis drink throughout our meal.

• Au Grandgousier – This was BY FAR my favorite dining experience of the trip. Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, the flow of this dining experience was not only impressive (the husband ran the kitchen, and the wife was the only server and bartender), but the food was delicious and the drinks were phenomenal.

• Au Fil du Zinc – Connected to Hotel du Vieux Moulin, this Michelin-star restaurant was chic, quaint, and classy – but the playlist had certified bangers, and that was just for lunch service! While the food was exquisite, I was taken aback by the decor and the furnishings.

• Restaurant A La Maison – This establishment was a little hard to find, and that’s because upon using the main entrance, it’s like you are walking into someone’s backyard. The food was pretty standard French fare, but it was the homey feeling that made it most enjoyable.

• L’Aspérule – This restaurant hosted our final dinner of the trip, and there were so many courses that I had to wave the white flag. But what you must know is that all-star chef Keigo Kimura put his entire foot into the whole menu and the bartenders were just as thoughtful and kind.

Have you visited France recently? What have been some of your most memorable dishes? Leave me a comment below!